Del Toro is good, no bull

I ate at Del Toro in Wicker Park the other night, and it is very good, friends. Whether you like anchovies or not you should try the anchovy bruschetta. Our table — none of us confessed anchovy advocates — mowed down two orders of them, and could have easily had a third.

Other highlights included: roasted beets with crumbled goat cheese and anise vinaigrette; terrine of safron-braised octopus with chickpea salad; seared monkfish in romesco sauce; and rioja-braised veal with Yukon gold potato puree.

There’s a late-night menu for you clubbies, too.

Del Toro is at 1520 N. Damen (773-252-1500), in the old MOD space. Don’t look for a sign — it ain’t hanging yet.

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