River North week – refined dining in the neighborhood

When your pockets are full and your belly is empty, River North is a good place to be. Some of the city’s finest (and most expensive) restaurants call the neighborhood home.

One of only a few four-star Italian restaurants in the country, Spiaggia (980 N. Michigan Ave., Second Floor, 312-280-2750), sits at the corner of Michigan and Oak in the One Magnificent Mile building. The multi-leveled and chandeliered dining room overlooks Oak Street Beach and turns out some of the best food–Italian or otherwise–the city has to offer. This is why chef/partner Tony Mantuano and his executive chef Missy Robbins are running out of wall space for their awards.
For a hushed and refined dining experience, the legendary Les Nomades (222 E. Ontario St., 312-649-9010) is the ticket. Sophisticated service, an idyllic setting and exquisitely prepared food are the restaurant’s hallmarks. Les Nomades flies under the radar a bit but that just adds to its allure, as it consistently receives accolades for its food and its impressive wine list.

The luxurious Japonais (600 W. Chicago Ave., 312-822-9600) was one of Chicago’s first high-end contemporary sushi restaurants when it opened in 2003, and it has had the staying power to remain popular despite the initial sticker shock of its prices. Via the restaurant’s servers, diners get instructions from the chef on how to eat certain items at Japonais, including whether or not a piece might taste better with soy sauce or wasabi, or without either. And as precious as that sounds, the chef is pretty much always right.

Chef Randy Zweiban of Nacional 27 (325 W. Huron St., 312-664-2727) has got skills, friends. He can take a simple dish from one of the 27 Latin countries he draws inspiration from and turn it into fine dining. And then bar chef Adam Seeger can match a wine to the dish or whip up a cocktail to complement it in a way you never thought possible. A night at Nacional 27 is always full of surprises. And on certain nights, people dance.

Occupying a warehouse-like space that is refined yet decidely urban, Zealous (419 W. Superior St., 312-475-9112) offers that fine wine and dining experience one would expect at a much stuffier restaurant. Chef Michael Taus’ casual personality is reflected in the overall experience (he’s rarely seen without a baseball cap on his head), but his serious culinary talent shines through on the plate, and in the glass.

More River North restaurants tomorrow.

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