In the block of Damen Avenue just south of where the expressway crosses overhead, a new restaurant called Il Covo (2152 N. Damen, 773-862-5555) is turning out some very nice food. Boneless quail, with sage, prosciutto di Parma, mozzarella, feta and Ligurian olives makes a great appetizer ($10.50), but the dish is so good a server at the restaurant has been lobbying the chef to make it an entree. I had to agree with the enthusiastic server.
Il Covo also turns out 8-inch pizzas from its wood-burning oven (one topped with osso bucco) for $8 to $10. All of the pastas are made fresh, and the Trio di Carne Brasata, which features braised veal cheek, pork belly and beef short ribs with polenta, parsnip ricotta puree, and mascarpone mashed potatoes ($27) is one of the best-reading dishes I have seen on a menu in a long time. They were out of it the night I ate there, but chef Luka Lukic, a native of Melbourne, Australia, assured me it would be available again soon. I’ll be back.
Il Covo is one of those tiny neighborhood places that is warm and casual, but with the attention to service that tells you it is a serious restaurant. Not too bad on the wallet, either.